Loake and Solovair are both Made in England. Both use Goodyear welted construction. Both produce boots and shoes that will outlast anything on the high street. But they come from different traditions, serve different purposes, and suit different wardrobes.
We stock both at The Ί£½Η»»Ζή. This is how they compare, and how to choose between them.
Loake has been making shoes in Kettering, Northamptonshire since 1880. Five generations of the Loake family. The tradition is classic English shoemaking β brogues, Oxfords, Chelsea boots, and dress shoes built for offices, weddings, and smart-casual wear. Loake is the boot for people who dress up.
Solovair is made by NPS in Wollaston, Northamptonshire β a factory operating since 1881 that spent thirty-five years producing the original Dr Martens. The tradition is working boots and subcultural footwear β derby boots, steel toes, and air-cushioned soles. Solovair is the boot for people who dress to last.
Same county. Same construction method. Completely different design philosophy.
Both brands use Goodyear welted construction on their core ranges. Both can be resoled. Both use leather insoles that mould to the foot over time. In terms of build quality, they are peers.
The sole differs significantly. Solovair uses an air-cushioned rubber sole β the same bouncing, shock-absorbing sole technology that defined Dr Martens. It is comfortable on hard surfaces, forgiving on long days, and distinctively casual in appearance.
Loake typically uses leather soles or Dainite rubber soles. Leather soles are dressier β they look and sound different underfoot β but they wear faster on pavement and offer less grip in wet conditions. Dainite rubber is a studded sole that splits the difference: smarter than Solovair's air-cushioned sole, grippier than leather.
Both brands use full-grain leather, but the finishes differ. Solovair offers greasy, hi-shine, and smooth finishes β leathers that are designed to develop character with wear. They look better at six months than at six days.
Loake uses polished, burnished, and waxy leathers β finishes that are designed to look refined from the start. A well-polished pair of Loake brogues looks appropriate in a boardroom. A pair of Solovair greasy derbies looks appropriate at a gig.
Neither is better. They serve different contexts.
Solovair runs true to UK sizing with a medium width. Half sizes are available across most styles. The fit is consistent across the range because most boots use the same last family.
Loake uses multiple lasts β different styles are built on different foot shapes. Some Loake shoes run narrow (the Capital last), others run wider (the Pennine last). You need to check the specific last for the style you are buying. This is one area where trying on in person β or asking us before ordering β really matters.
Solovair boots range from roughly Β£180βΒ£250. Loake boots and shoes range from Β£200βΒ£350, with some premium lines higher. The price difference reflects the different finishing standards and the dress-shoe heritage of Loake rather than a difference in construction quality.
At the overlap point β around Β£220βΒ£250 β you are choosing between a Solovair derby boot and a Loake brogue boot. Same construction method, same Northamptonshire provenance, completely different shoe.
Solovair suits: jeans, chinos, casual trousers, workwear, streetwear, subcultural dressing. The derby boot is the core. Chelsea boots and monkey boots round out the range.
Loake suits: tailored trousers, suits, smart chinos, smart-casual office wear, weddings. The brogue is the core. Chelsea boots and Oxford shoes complete the range.
If your wardrobe centres on denim and leather jackets, buy Solovair. If your wardrobe centres on wool trousers and blazers, buy Loake. If your wardrobe includes both β buy both.
Buy Solovair if: you want a tough, casual, everyday boot with air-cushioned comfort. You wear jeans more than suits. You want the boot that inherited the original Dr Martens construction. Start with the 8-Eye Derby in Greasy Black.
Buy Loake if: you want a refined, smart-casual boot or shoe that works with tailoring. You need something for the office, a wedding, or any situation where a derby boot feels too casual. Start with the Bedale Brogue Boot.
Both are Made in England. Both are Goodyear welted. Both will last a decade or more. The choice is not about quality β it is about what you need the boot to do.
Read our Complete Boot Buying Guide for more on construction and styling, or visit us in Camden Town and try both.
]]>If you are looking at creepers in the UK, two names come up: George Cox and Underground. Both make thick-soled, crepe-bottom shoes. Both have roots in subcultural style. But the similarities largely end there. The construction, the materials, the price, and the country of manufacture are all different.
We stock George Cox at The Ί£½Η»»Ζή. We do not stock Underground. This is not an accident β it reflects what we believe in as a shop. But this comparison is honest, and if Underground is the right choice for you, we will say so.
George Cox creepers are made in Northampton, England. The factory has been producing shoes since 1906. Each pair is bench-made by hand on a wooden last β a process that takes significantly longer than machine production and requires skilled craftspeople.
Underground creepers are manufactured overseas β primarily in Spain and Portugal for some lines, and Asia for others. The production is factory-based and mechanised, which is how Underground achieves its lower price point.
If Made in England matters to you β and if you are reading this on our site, it probably does β George Cox is the only option that meets the standard.
George Cox uses hand-lasting, where the leather upper is stretched and shaped over a wooden form by hand before being attached to the sole. The soles are natural plantation crepe β genuine rubber tapped from trees, not synthetic rubber. Some models are Goodyear welted; others use cemented construction depending on the sole thickness.
Underground uses machine-lasted construction with synthetic crepe soles. The process is efficient and produces a consistent product, but it does not offer the same level of craftsmanship or material quality as hand-lasting with natural crepe.
The practical difference: a George Cox creeper will mould to the shape of your foot over time, the natural crepe sole will develop character, and the leather will soften into a personal fit. An Underground creeper will feel the same on day one as on day three hundred.
George Cox uses full-grain leather and high-quality suede sourced from European tanneries. The leather is thick, consistent, and finishes well over time β it develops a patina rather than cracking or peeling.
Underground uses leather and suede at a lower grade point. It is functional and looks good new, but it does not age with the same character. At the price point, this is expected β you are paying for a different level of material.
George Cox D-Ring Creepers start at around Β£240. The Robot Range β exclusive to our shop β sits at Β£310βΒ£375. These are premium prices for premium shoes.
Underground creepers typically range from Β£100βΒ£180. That is a significant difference, and it explains why Underground sells in higher volume. For many buyers, the lower price is the deciding factor.
Underground offers a wider range of colours, prints, and platform heights than George Cox. If you want a leopard-print creeper with a triple sole, Underground is more likely to have it. George Cox focuses on its core styles β the D-Ring, the Gibson, the Monkey Boot β in classic leather and suede options.
George Cox does produce collaborations with brands like Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, which result in limited-edition designs. But the day-to-day range is deliberately focused rather than expansive.
Choose George Cox if: you want Made in England construction, premium materials, hand-lasting, natural crepe soles, and a shoe that will last a decade or more. You are paying for craftsmanship, not just a look.
Choose Underground if: budget is your primary concern, you want a wider range of colours and platform options, or you are buying a creeper for occasional rather than daily wear.
We stock George Cox because it aligns with what The Ί£½Η»»Ζή has always been about: British-made, properly constructed, built to last. Browse the full George Cox range or read the complete George Cox history.
]]>The Chelsea boot and the derby boot are the two most popular boot styles in Britain, and they could not be more different. One pulls on, one laces up. One works with a suit, one works with a mosh pit. Choosing between them is not about which is better β it is about what you need the boot to do.
We sell both in quantity from our shop in Camden Town. Here is how they compare, who should buy which, and what to look for in each.
The derby boot β also called a lace-up boot or, in Dr Martens terminology, the 1460 β is the workhorse of British footwear. It has an open lacing system, meaning the eyelet facings are stitched on top of the vamp and can be pulled wide apart. This makes it easy to get on and off and allows for a more adjustable fit.
The classic 8-eye derby is the format most people picture when they think of boots. It sits above the ankle, provides good support, and has enough presence to look intentional without being loud. The Solovair 8-Eye Derby and the Dr Martens 1460 are the two reference points.
Best for: everyday wear, casual outfits, jeans, workwear-inspired dressing, subcultural style. The derby boot does not try to be elegant β it tries to be reliable, and it succeeds.
Lacing options: 6-eye (low), 8-eye (standard), 11-eye (mid-calf), 14-eye (tall), and 20β30 eye for the fully committed.
The Chelsea boot has no laces. It uses elasticated side panels β gussets β to hold the boot on the foot, with a pull tab at the back for getting it on. The silhouette is clean, narrow, and sits close to the ankle.
The style was originally designed for Queen Victoria's riding in the 1850s, but its modern identity comes from the Kings Road in Chelsea in the 1960s, where The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, and the mod movement made it a fashion staple. The name stuck.
A good Chelsea boot splits the difference between a boot and a dress shoe. It has enough structure to feel substantial but enough refinement to work with trousers, chinos, and even some suits. Solovair produces an excellent dealer boot in several leathers, and Loake makes some of the best Chelsea boots in Britain.
Best for: smart-casual dressing, tailored outfits, going from office to pub without changing shoes, travel. The Chelsea boot is the boot for people who want a boot that does not look like a boot.
The construction method matters more than the style when it comes to longevity.
A Goodyear welted Chelsea boot β like the Solovair Dealer or a Loake Chelsea β can be resoled and will last a decade or more. A cemented Chelsea boot will last three to five years, and when the sole goes, the boot goes with it.
The same applies to derby boots. A Goodyear welted Solovair derby outlasts a standard Dr Martens derby by years, because the sole is stitched rather than bonded.
At BritBoot, we always recommend buying the best construction you can afford, regardless of style. A well-made Chelsea boot at Β£220 will cost you less per year than a cheap one at Β£100.
Derby boots win on adjustability. The lacing system lets you tighten or loosen the boot around your instep, which matters if your feet swell during the day or if you wear thick socks in winter and thin ones in summer. You can also control how high the boot sits on your leg by varying how tightly you lace the upper eyelets.
Chelsea boots win on convenience. No laces means you can pull them on in ten seconds. But the fit depends entirely on the elasticated gusset and the shape of the last. If the boot does not fit your foot shape, there is no lacing to compensate. This is why trying on Chelsea boots in person matters more than with derby boots.
Break-in works differently too. Derby boots flex at the lacing, which distributes pressure across the tongue and eyelet facings. Chelsea boots flex at the gusset and across the instep, which can create pressure points if the fit is not right. A well-fitted Chelsea boot is one of the most comfortable things you can wear. A poorly fitted one is miserable.
Derby boots β pair naturally with straight or slim jeans, chinos, cargo trousers, and anything workwear-influenced. The higher the eyelet count, the more the boot dominates the outfit. An 8-eye sits neatly under jeans. A 14-eye is a statement piece that wants to be seen.
Chelsea boots β pair naturally with tailored trousers, slim jeans, and smarter chinos. The clean silhouette disappears under a trouser leg in a way that a lace-up cannot. A black leather Chelsea with dark trousers is one of the easiest outfits in menswear.
Neither style is gender-specific. We fit men and women in both, daily.
Buy a derby boot if: you want versatility, adjustable fit, subcultural credibility, and a boot that works equally well with jeans on Saturday and workwear on Monday. Start with the Solovair 8-Eye Derby.
Buy a Chelsea boot if: you want something that crosses between smart and casual, pulls on without fuss, and works with trousers as well as denim. Start with the Solovair Dealer Boot or a Loake Chelsea.
Buy both if: you are serious about boots. They serve different occasions, and having one of each covers almost every situation.
Come to our Camden Town shop and try both side by side, or browse Chelsea boots and derby boots online. And if sizing is a concern, read our Solovair vs Dr Martens comparison for detailed fit notes across brands.
]]>Some are. Most are not. And the difference matters more than you might think.
If you pick up a pair of Dr Martens from a high street retailer or from the Dr Martens website, the chances are overwhelming that they were made in China, Vietnam, Laos, or Thailand. The standard 1460, the 1461, the Jadon platform β all manufactured overseas.
Dr Martens does still produce a small "Made in England" line. These boots are manufactured in Northamptonshire using better leather and closer construction methods to the originals. But they represent a tiny fraction of the brand's total output, and they cost significantly more β typically Β£260βΒ£300 compared to Β£170 for the standard version.
We have sold Dr Martens from our shop in Camden Town since the late 1950s β before most people had heard of them. We carry both the Made in England line and the standard range. Here is what happened, and what it means for you as a buyer.
For the first four decades of Dr Martens' existence, every pair was made in England. The boots were produced at factories in Northamptonshire β including the NPS factory in Wollaston, which manufactured Dr Martens under contract for over thirty-five years.
By the early 2000s, Dr Martens was in financial trouble. The brand had overexpanded, fashion trends had shifted, and sales were falling. In 2003, the company made the decision to close its UK factories and move production to Asia. It was a commercial survival move, but it fundamentally changed the product.
The NPS factory in Wollaston did not close. It had been making boots since 1881 β long before Dr Martens existed β and it simply continued producing the same boots under a new name: Solovair. Same factory. Same machinery. Same Goodyear welting. Different label.
Dr Martens retained a small production line in England, producing a premium "Made in England" (MiE) range. These boots use Quilon leather β a step up from the corrected-grain leather used in the standard range β and are constructed using methods closer to the original pre-2003 process.
The MiE 1460 is a better boot than the standard 1460. The leather is thicker and more consistent. The construction is sturdier. The feel out of the box is closer to what Dr Martens used to be.
But at Β£260βΒ£300, it sits in a price bracket where it faces direct competition from Solovair, which offers Goodyear welted, Made in England construction at Β£199βΒ£230. We have written a detailed comparison of Solovair vs Dr Martens if you want the full breakdown.
Check the tongue. Every pair of Dr Martens has a label inside the tongue stating the country of manufacture. If it says "Made in England," it is from the MiE line. If it says "Made in China," "Made in Vietnam," "Made in Laos," or "Made in Thailand," it is from the standard range.
The Made in England range also typically features slightly different branding β the heel loop and insole will state the English origin. The boxes are usually different too, with MiE boots packaged in a more premium box with specific labelling.
On the Dr Martens website, the Made in England products are listed in a separate collection. They are not mixed in with the standard range, so it is difficult to buy one by accident β in either direction.
The most noticeable difference is the leather. Standard Dr Martens use corrected-grain leather β a thinner hide with a surface coating applied to create uniformity. It looks fine new, but it does not develop a patina. It can crack and peel rather than ageing gracefully.
The sole construction changes too. Standard Dr Martens use a heat-sealed welt β the sole is bonded to the upper with heat rather than stitched. This is faster to produce but means the boot cannot be resoled. When the sole wears through, the boot is finished.
And there are subtler differences: thread quality, eyelet consistency, sole density, insole cushioning. Individually, none of these are dramatic. Collectively, they add up to a boot that feels and performs differently from what Dr Martens used to be.
That depends on what you want from a boot.
If you want the Dr Martens look β the yellow stitching, the AirWair branding, the brand recognition β at an accessible price point, the standard range does the job. At Β£170, the standard 1460 is still a decent boot. It is just not the same boot it was in 1990.
If you want the original Dr Martens quality β Made in England, resolable, thick leather, long-lasting β you have two choices. You can buy the Dr Martens Made in England line at Β£260βΒ£300. Or you can buy Solovair at Β£199βΒ£230 and get what is, in construction terms, the same boot from the same factory that made the originals.
We sell both. We recommend both, depending on what matters to you. If the yellow stitching and the DM branding are important, buy Made in England Dr Martens. If construction quality and value matter more, buy Solovair. Either way, buy Made in England.
We carry the Made in England range in our Camden Town shop and online. We also stock the standard range, so you can compare both in person if you visit. Nick can talk you through the differences and fit you in each.
Browse our Dr Martens collection and our Solovair collection online, or read our complete Solovair vs Dr Martens comparison for the detailed breakdown.
]]>If you're looking at Solovair and Dr Martens side by side and wondering why they look almost identical, there's a very good reason. Solovair β made by NPS Shoes in Wollaston, Northamptonshire β was the factory that manufactured the original Dr Martens boots for over thirty years. When Dr Martens moved most of its production to Asia in 2003, NPS kept making the same boots, using the same machinery and the same lasts, under the Solovair name.
We've sold both brands from our shop in Camden Town since the 1960s. We've fitted thousands of customers in each. This isn't a review based on buying one pair of each online β it's what we've learned over decades of selling, fitting, and repairing these boots every day.
The Dr Martens story begins in 1945 when Klaus MΓ€rtens, a German doctor, designed an air-cushioned sole to help his injured foot heal. He partnered with Herbert Funck, and the two began producing boots in Munich. In 1959, the Griggs family β shoemakers in Wollaston, Northamptonshire β spotted the design in a trade magazine and licensed it for the British market. On 1 April 1960, the first Dr Martens 1460 boot rolled off the production line.
For the next four decades, every pair of Dr Martens was made in England. The boots became standard issue for postmen, factory workers, and police officers before being adopted by skinheads, punks, mods, and goths. By the 1990s, Dr Martens had become one of the most recognisable footwear brands in the world.
Financial difficulties in the early 2000s forced a pivotal decision. In 2003, Dr Martens closed its UK factories and moved production to China, Vietnam, Laos, and Thailand. A small "Made in England" line was retained, but the vast majority of Dr Martens sold today β including the flagship 1460 β are manufactured overseas.
When Dr Martens ended its contract with NPS Shoes in 2003, the Wollaston factory didn't close. NPS had been making boots since 1881 β long before Dr Martens existed β and they simply continued doing what they'd always done. The boots that came off the line were virtually identical to the Dr Martens they'd been producing for thirty-five years, but now they carried the Solovair name, a portmanteau of "Sole of Air."
Today, every pair of Solovair boots is still made at the NPS factory in Wollaston. The workforce, the machinery, the Goodyear welting equipment β it's all the same. Solovair has grown from a niche factory brand into a respected name in its own right, with collaborations including Carhartt WIP and a growing following among buyers who want the original Dr Martens quality without the overseas production.
The Ί£½Η»»Ζή has been the home of Dr Martens retail since 1958 β we were the first shop in the world to stock them. We've carried Solovair since NPS began selling under their own name, and we stock the full range of both brands' Made in England offerings. If you've ever visited our shop in Camden, you'll know that Nick will talk you through the differences in person and let you try both side by side.
Both brands use an air-cushioned sole β Dr Martens calls theirs "AirWair," while Solovair's is the original "Soft Sole Suspension" technology. In practice, the feel is very similar: a bouncy, cushioned step that absorbs impact well on hard surfaces.
The key difference is in the welt. Solovair boots are Goodyear welted, which means the upper leather is stitched to a welt strip that runs around the sole. This construction method is more expensive and more time-consuming, but it means the boot can be resoled β Solovair even sells replacement soles directly. Standard Dr Martens use a heat-sealed welt, where the sole is bonded to the upper rather than stitched. This is faster to manufacture but makes resoling more difficult. The Made in England Dr Martens line uses a closer construction method to Solovair, but at a significantly higher price point.
This is where the gap is most noticeable. Solovair consistently uses a thicker, tighter-grained leather across its range. The greasy and hi-shine leathers have a substantial feel straight out of the box, and they develop a genuine patina over time rather than simply cracking or peeling.
Standard Dr Martens use what the industry calls corrected-grain leather β thinner, with a coating applied to create a uniform surface. It's perfectly functional, but it doesn't age in the same way, and it's noticeably less substantial to the touch. The Made in England Dr Martens line uses Quilon leather, which sits between the two β better than the standard range, but generally still thinner than Solovair's offerings.
Solovair also sources its leather from European tanneries, while standard Dr Martens leather is sourced from Asia and South America. This isn't just a provenance point β European leather tends to have fewer defects and more consistent grain.
Dr Martens are instantly recognisable by their trademarked yellow welt stitching. Solovair uses tonal stitching β grey or matching the leather β which gives the boot a more understated, slightly dressier appearance. Some buyers prefer the bold Dr Martens look; others appreciate that Solovair can pass in more formal settings. It's a matter of taste, not quality.
Dr Martens are known for running slightly large and are famously sold in whole UK sizes only. If you're a half size, you're typically advised to size down, which can leave you with a boot that's either slightly too snug or slightly too roomy. Break-in on standard Dr Martens can be notoriously unforgiving β the stiff leather and heat-sealed sole don't flex easily in the first few weeks.
Solovair offers half sizes across most of its range, which makes fitting significantly easier. The boots tend to run true to UK sizing. The leather is firmer out of the box β in fact, the first day in a pair of Solovairs can be tougher than Dr Martens β but because the leather is thicker and natural-grained, it moulds to the shape of your foot over time rather than simply stretching out. The leather insole also conforms to your foot, which means the fit improves with every wear.
Our advice: try both. If you're in Camden, come to the shop and we'll fit you in each. If you're buying online, order your normal UK size in Solovair and size down in standard Dr Martens.
Standard Dr Martens 1460 boots retail at around Β£170. Solovair's equivalent 8-eye derby boot sits at approximately Β£220. That Β£50 difference gets you Made in England construction, better leather, Goodyear welting, half-size availability, and a boot that can be resoled.
If you're comparing like for like β Solovair against the Dr Martens Made in England 1460 β the picture shifts further. The MiE 1460 retails at around Β£260βΒ£300, making Solovair the better-value option by a significant margin for what is, in construction terms, a very similar boot made in the same region of England.
Factoring in resoling, a pair of Solovairs can last a decade or more of regular wear. Standard Dr Martens, with their bonded soles, typically last three to five years before the sole degrades beyond repair.
For your first Solovair: The Solovair 8-Eye Derby Boot in Greasy Black. This is the boot that started it all β the direct descendant of the original 1460. Thick greasy leather, Goodyear welted sole, made at the NPS factory in Wollaston. If you want to understand why people switch from Dr Martens to Solovair, this is where you start.
For a Made in England Dr Martens: The Dr Martens 1460 Made in England in black or cherry. Quilon leather, made in the UK, with the classic yellow stitching. It's more expensive than Solovair, but if the DM branding matters to you, this is the one to get β not the standard range.
For something different: The Solovair Dealer Boot in Black Hi-Shine. A Chelsea-style pull-on boot with all the Solovair construction benefits. Works equally well with jeans or trousers.
We sell both brands, and we'll always sell both brands. Dr Martens is a cultural icon, and the yellow-stitched 1460 has earned its place in fashion history. But if you're asking us which boot is better made, which boot will last longer, and which boot offers more value β it's Solovair. Every time.
That's not marketing. That's thirty-five years of shared factory history, thousands of pairs sold from our shop, and a straightforward comparison of materials, construction, and price.
Come to the shop in Camden Town and try both. Or browse our full Solovair collection and Dr Martens collection online.
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