Solovair boots are Made in England at the NPS factory in Wollaston, Northamptonshire. They fit differently from Dr Martens, differently from George Cox, and differently from whatever high-street shoes you are used to. This guide tells you exactly what to expect so you order the right size the first time.
We have fitted thousands of customers in Solovair boots at our Camden Town shop. If you are buying online and unsure, this is the advice we would give you in person.
Solovair runs true to UK sizing. If you are a UK 9, buy a UK 9. Unlike standard Dr Martens, which run slightly large and are often recommended a half size down, Solovair does not require you to adjust.
Solovair also offers half sizes across most of its range — something Dr Martens does not do in its standard line. If you are a UK 8.5, you can actually buy a UK 8.5. This alone eliminates the most common sizing complaint about lace-up boots.
Solovair boots tend to fit medium width. They are not as wide as Grinders and not as narrow as Loake. If you have a wider foot, the greasy leather range is more forgiving — the oils in the leather allow it to stretch slightly during break-in. The hi-shine range is stiffer and less accommodating of wider feet.
If you have particularly narrow feet, Solovair may feel slightly roomy in the toe box. A thicker insole can help — we stock insoles in the shop and online.
This is the question we get asked most. Here is the direct comparison:
Dr Martens standard: Run slightly large. Whole sizes only. Size down if between sizes. Wide toe box. Stiff break-in.
Solovair: Run true to UK size. Half sizes available. Medium width. Firmer out of the box, but moulds to the foot over time.
If you wear a UK 9 in Dr Martens, try a UK 9 in Solovair. If you sized down in Dr Martens (e.g. you are a 9.5 wearing a 9), order your true size in Solovair — a 9.5.
For the full brand comparison beyond sizing, read our Solovair vs Dr Martens article.
Solovair boots are firmer out of the box than standard Dr Martens. The first day or two can feel stiff — the thick leather and Goodyear welted sole do not flex immediately. This is normal and it is a sign of quality, not a sizing problem.
By the end of the first week, the leather insole begins to compress and conform to the shape of your foot. By week two or three, the boot feels different — it fits your foot specifically, not generically. This moulding process is one of the main advantages of Goodyear welted construction and something cemented boots cannot replicate.
Do not be tempted to buy a larger size to skip the break-in. A Solovair that feels snug on day one will feel perfect on day fourteen. A Solovair that feels comfortable on day one will feel loose on day fourteen.
For more on break-in, read our guide: How to Break In Leather Boots Without Destroying Them.
8-Eye Derby: The most popular Solovair. True to size, medium width. The standard recommendation for most buyers.
6-Eye: Same last as the 8-eye, just shorter. Same sizing applies.
11-Eye and 14-Eye: Same last, taller shaft. Consider whether you want the shaft to fit snugly around your calf — if your calves are larger, the taller boots may feel tight at the top when fully laced.
Dealer (Chelsea): Runs true to size. The elasticated gusset does most of the fitting work. If you are between sizes, size down — a loose Chelsea boot is worse than a snug one.
Steel Toe: The steel cap takes up slightly more room in the toe box. Some customers find they need a half size up in steel-toe models. Try before committing if possible.
Come to the shop. We are at 5 Kentish Town Road, Camden Town — two minutes from the tube. Nick will measure your foot, fit you in the boot, and tell you honestly whether it is right.
If you cannot visit, email us before ordering. Tell us your UK shoe size, what brand you normally wear, and whether your feet are wide or narrow. We will recommend the right Solovair size.
Browse the full Solovair range.
]]>A decent pair of boots is an investment. At the prices we sell — £170 to £750 — you are entitled to know exactly what you are paying for and how to choose the right pair. We have been selling boots from Camden Town since 1851, and the questions customers ask in the shop are almost always the same. This guide answers them.
Everything else — brand, colour, style — is secondary to how the boot is built. Construction determines how long it will last, how it will age, whether it can be repaired, and how it will feel after the first hundred wears.
Goodyear welted — the upper is stitched to a welt strip around the sole. The sole is then stitched to the welt. This creates a waterproof seal, allows the boot to be resoled, and lets the leather insole mould to your foot. All Solovair boots and most Loake boots use this method. Expect to pay £180+.
Heat-sealed / cemented — the sole is bonded to the upper with heat or adhesive. Faster to produce, lighter, and cheaper. Cannot be resoled. Standard Dr Martens and Grinders use this method. Expect to pay £100–£200.
Blake stitched — the sole is stitched directly to the insole through the bottom of the boot. Thinner and more flexible than Goodyear welted. Can be resoled but less robustly. Some dress boots and continental brands use this method.
Our recommendation: if you plan to wear the boots regularly for more than three years, buy Goodyear welted. The upfront cost is higher, but the per-year cost is lower because the boot lasts longer and can be resoled.
Full-grain leather — the top layer of the hide with natural grain intact. Strongest, most durable, develops a patina over time. Used by Solovair, George Cox, and Loake.
Corrected-grain leather — a lower layer or blemished hide with a surface coating applied. Uniform appearance, but does not age as well. Used in standard Dr Martens.
Suede — the underside of the hide, brushed to create a soft nap. Less weather-resistant but distinctive. George Cox produces excellent suede creepers. Treat with a suede protector before wearing.
Greasy leather — leather treated with oils or wax for a matte, slightly oily finish. Develops character quickly. Solovair's greasy black is one of the best examples on the market.
Ask yourself: do I want a boot that looks the same in year three as it did on day one, or do I want one that tells its own story? If the latter, full-grain or greasy leather is what you want.
This is where most online purchases go wrong. Different brands fit differently, even at the same UK size.
Dr Martens — run slightly large. Available in whole UK sizes only. Size down if you are between sizes. Stiff break-in period.
Solovair — run true to UK size. Available in half sizes. Firmer out of the box than Dr Martens, but the leather moulds to your foot over time. The leather insole also conforms.
George Cox — run true to size on most styles. Creepers have a wider last than boots. Half sizes available on most models.
Loake — multiple lasts with different fits. Some run narrow. Check the specific last for the style you are buying.
Grinders — run true to UK size. Generally a wider fit than Solovair or Dr Martens.
If you are buying online and unsure, contact us before ordering. If you are in London, come to the shop in Camden Town and try both brands side by side. Fifteen minutes in the shop saves you a return.
Derby boots (8-eye, 6-eye) — the classic lace-up boot. Works with jeans, chinos, casual trousers. The most versatile boot style. The Solovair 8-Eye Derby and the Dr Martens 1460 are the two benchmarks.
Chelsea boots — pull-on, no laces, elasticated side panels. Dressier than a derby boot. Works with tailored trousers and slimmer jeans. Solovair and Loake both make excellent versions.
Brogues — decorative perforations on the toe and sides. Can be a boot or a shoe. More formal. Loake dominates this category at BritBoot.
Creepers — thick crepe sole, low profile, distinctive silhouette. A statement shoe, not a workhorse. George Cox owns this category.
Steel toe boots — reinforced toe cap for protection. Available across multiple brands and eyelet counts. Functional first, style second — though a pair of polished steel-toe 14-eyes looks as good as anything.
£100–£170: Standard Dr Martens, Grinders. Heat-sealed or cemented construction. Decent boots for occasional wear. Will last 3–5 years.
£170–£250: Solovair, Loake entry-level, Dr Martens Made in England. Goodyear welted, resolable, better leather. Will last 8–15 years with care. This is the sweet spot for most buyers.
£250–£450: George Cox, Loake premium, Dr Martens MiE special editions. Hand-lasted or premium construction. Heirloom quality. These are boots and shoes you keep for life.
£450+: Vintage and rare Made in England Dr Martens. Collector items. One-off stock that will not be reproduced. Browse our Vintage & Rare collection.
Best first serious boot: Solovair 8-Eye Derby Boot in Greasy Black. Made in England, Goodyear welted, resolable, half sizes available. £220.
Best Chelsea boot: Solovair Dealer Boot in Black Hi-Shine. Clean, versatile, same factory quality.
Best for smart-casual: Loake Bedale Brogue Boot. Northamptonshire-made, Goodyear welted, works with tailoring.
Best statement shoe: George Cox D-Ring Creeper in Black Leather. The original creeper. Nothing else looks like it.
Best on a budget: Grinders Stag Derby Boot. Solid construction at an accessible price point.
Still unsure? Read our Solovair vs Dr Martens comparison or visit us in Camden Town. We have been helping people choose boots since before your grandparents were born.
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