The NPS factory in Wollaston, Northamptonshire has been making boots since 1881. For thirty-five of those years β from the late 1960s to 2003 β it manufactured Dr Martens under contract. Every pair of Dr Martens 1460s sold during that period came from this building, made by these workers, on these machines.
When Dr Martens moved production to Asia in 2003, the factory did not close. It kept making the same boots, using the same equipment and the same methods, under a different name: Solovair.
We have stocked Solovair at The Ί£½Η»»Ζή since NPS began selling under their own brand. This is what happens inside the factory that made the boots you grew up in.
Northamptonshire has been the centre of British shoemaking for over 500 years. The county's position in the middle of England made it a natural hub for leather working β cattle markets were nearby, oak bark for tanning was abundant, and the road network connected the region to London and the industrial north.
By the nineteenth century, Northamptonshire was producing the majority of Britain's footwear. Wollaston, a village south of Wellingborough, became home to several boot factories. NPS β Northamptonshire Productive Society β was established there in 1881 as a cooperative.
Most of those factories are gone. NPS is still here. The building, the workforce, and the machinery have been in continuous operation for over 140 years.
The process begins with leather selection. NPS sources its leather primarily from European tanneries β UK, Italian, and Spanish hides selected for consistency, thickness, and grain quality. Each hide is inspected and graded before cutting.
The uppers are cut by hand or using clicking presses β machines that stamp out the pattern pieces from the hide. A skilled clicker positions the patterns to avoid blemishes and maximise the usable area of each hide. This is a judgement call, not an automated process.
The cut pieces are stitched together to form the upper β the part of the boot that wraps around your foot. This is done on industrial sewing machines by machinists who have been doing this work for years, often decades.
The upper is then pulled over a last β a solid form shaped like a foot β and stretched into shape. This is called lasting, and it determines the fit and silhouette of the finished boot. NPS uses the same lasts that produced the original Dr Martens.
The Goodyear welting happens next. A strip of leather or rubber β the welt β is stitched around the perimeter of the lasted upper. The sole is then stitched to the welt. This double-stitch construction creates the waterproof, resolable structure that defines a Goodyear welted boot.
Finally, the boot is finished β edges trimmed, sole painted, leather polished, eyelets set, laces threaded. Each pair is inspected before leaving the factory.
The entire process, from leather selection to finished boot, takes significantly longer than machine-produced, cemented footwear. That time is the difference between a boot that lasts four years and one that lasts fifteen.
The Goodyear welting equipment at NPS is the same machinery that produced Dr Martens for decades. The lasts are the same lasts. The sole-stitching machines, the lasting equipment, the finishing tools β they did not change when the brand name changed.
This is why the comparison between Solovair and Dr Martens is so direct. Solovair is not an homage to the original Dr Martens or a competitor inspired by them. It is the same boot, from the same place, made the same way, by many of the same people. The only thing that changed was the label.
"Solovair" is a portmanteau of "Sole of Air" β a reference to the air-cushioned sole technology that the factory has been using since the 1960s. NPS chose the name to reflect the product's defining feature: the bouncing, cushioned sole that made Dr Martens famous.
The brand has grown significantly since 2003. Collaborations with Carhartt WIP and other brands have raised Solovair's profile internationally. But the factory has not changed its methods, its materials, or its standards. Volume has increased; quality has not been compromised.
You can describe a boot's construction on a product page. You can photograph the leather and the stitching. But the factory is where the real story lives β 140 years of continuous production, generations of skilled workers, and a commitment to doing things the slow, expensive, correct way.
When you buy a pair of Solovair boots, you are buying the output of that factory. Not a brand name, not a marketing campaign β a product made by people who have been making boots in the same building since Queen Victoria was on the throne.
Read What Made in England Actually Means in 2026 for the broader context, or browse our full Solovair collection.
]]>Solovair boots are Made in England at the NPS factory in Wollaston, Northamptonshire. They fit differently from Dr Martens, differently from George Cox, and differently from whatever high-street shoes you are used to. This guide tells you exactly what to expect so you order the right size the first time.
We have fitted thousands of customers in Solovair boots at our Camden Town shop. If you are buying online and unsure, this is the advice we would give you in person.
Solovair runs true to UK sizing. If you are a UK 9, buy a UK 9. Unlike standard Dr Martens, which run slightly large and are often recommended a half size down, Solovair does not require you to adjust.
Solovair also offers half sizes across most of its range β something Dr Martens does not do in its standard line. If you are a UK 8.5, you can actually buy a UK 8.5. This alone eliminates the most common sizing complaint about lace-up boots.
Solovair boots tend to fit medium width. They are not as wide as Grinders and not as narrow as Loake. If you have a wider foot, the greasy leather range is more forgiving β the oils in the leather allow it to stretch slightly during break-in. The hi-shine range is stiffer and less accommodating of wider feet.
If you have particularly narrow feet, Solovair may feel slightly roomy in the toe box. A thicker insole can help β we stock insoles in the shop and online.
This is the question we get asked most. Here is the direct comparison:
Dr Martens standard: Run slightly large. Whole sizes only. Size down if between sizes. Wide toe box. Stiff break-in.
Solovair: Run true to UK size. Half sizes available. Medium width. Firmer out of the box, but moulds to the foot over time.
If you wear a UK 9 in Dr Martens, try a UK 9 in Solovair. If you sized down in Dr Martens (e.g. you are a 9.5 wearing a 9), order your true size in Solovair β a 9.5.
For the full brand comparison beyond sizing, read our Solovair vs Dr Martens article.
Solovair boots are firmer out of the box than standard Dr Martens. The first day or two can feel stiff β the thick leather and Goodyear welted sole do not flex immediately. This is normal and it is a sign of quality, not a sizing problem.
By the end of the first week, the leather insole begins to compress and conform to the shape of your foot. By week two or three, the boot feels different β it fits your foot specifically, not generically. This moulding process is one of the main advantages of Goodyear welted construction and something cemented boots cannot replicate.
Do not be tempted to buy a larger size to skip the break-in. A Solovair that feels snug on day one will feel perfect on day fourteen. A Solovair that feels comfortable on day one will feel loose on day fourteen.
For more on break-in, read our guide: How to Break In Leather Boots Without Destroying Them.
8-Eye Derby: The most popular Solovair. True to size, medium width. The standard recommendation for most buyers.
6-Eye: Same last as the 8-eye, just shorter. Same sizing applies.
11-Eye and 14-Eye: Same last, taller shaft. Consider whether you want the shaft to fit snugly around your calf β if your calves are larger, the taller boots may feel tight at the top when fully laced.
Dealer (Chelsea): Runs true to size. The elasticated gusset does most of the fitting work. If you are between sizes, size down β a loose Chelsea boot is worse than a snug one.
Steel Toe: The steel cap takes up slightly more room in the toe box. Some customers find they need a half size up in steel-toe models. Try before committing if possible.
Come to the shop. We are at 5 Kentish Town Road, Camden Town β two minutes from the tube. Nick will measure your foot, fit you in the boot, and tell you honestly whether it is right.
If you cannot visit, email us before ordering. Tell us your UK shoe size, what brand you normally wear, and whether your feet are wide or narrow. We will recommend the right Solovair size.
Browse the full Solovair range.
]]>A decent pair of boots is an investment. At the prices we sell β Β£170 to Β£750 β you are entitled to know exactly what you are paying for and how to choose the right pair. We have been selling boots from Camden Town since 1851, and the questions customers ask in the shop are almost always the same. This guide answers them.
Everything else β brand, colour, style β is secondary to how the boot is built. Construction determines how long it will last, how it will age, whether it can be repaired, and how it will feel after the first hundred wears.
Goodyear welted β the upper is stitched to a welt strip around the sole. The sole is then stitched to the welt. This creates a waterproof seal, allows the boot to be resoled, and lets the leather insole mould to your foot. All Solovair boots and most Loake boots use this method. Expect to pay Β£180+.
Heat-sealed / cemented β the sole is bonded to the upper with heat or adhesive. Faster to produce, lighter, and cheaper. Cannot be resoled. Standard Dr Martens and Grinders use this method. Expect to pay Β£100βΒ£200.
Blake stitched β the sole is stitched directly to the insole through the bottom of the boot. Thinner and more flexible than Goodyear welted. Can be resoled but less robustly. Some dress boots and continental brands use this method.
Our recommendation: if you plan to wear the boots regularly for more than three years, buy Goodyear welted. The upfront cost is higher, but the per-year cost is lower because the boot lasts longer and can be resoled.
Full-grain leather β the top layer of the hide with natural grain intact. Strongest, most durable, develops a patina over time. Used by Solovair, George Cox, and Loake.
Corrected-grain leather β a lower layer or blemished hide with a surface coating applied. Uniform appearance, but does not age as well. Used in standard Dr Martens.
Suede β the underside of the hide, brushed to create a soft nap. Less weather-resistant but distinctive. George Cox produces excellent suede creepers. Treat with a suede protector before wearing.
Greasy leather β leather treated with oils or wax for a matte, slightly oily finish. Develops character quickly. Solovair's greasy black is one of the best examples on the market.
Ask yourself: do I want a boot that looks the same in year three as it did on day one, or do I want one that tells its own story? If the latter, full-grain or greasy leather is what you want.
This is where most online purchases go wrong. Different brands fit differently, even at the same UK size.
Dr Martens β run slightly large. Available in whole UK sizes only. Size down if you are between sizes. Stiff break-in period.
Solovair β run true to UK size. Available in half sizes. Firmer out of the box than Dr Martens, but the leather moulds to your foot over time. The leather insole also conforms.
George Cox β run true to size on most styles. Creepers have a wider last than boots. Half sizes available on most models.
Loake β multiple lasts with different fits. Some run narrow. Check the specific last for the style you are buying.
Grinders β run true to UK size. Generally a wider fit than Solovair or Dr Martens.
If you are buying online and unsure, contact us before ordering. If you are in London, come to the shop in Camden Town and try both brands side by side. Fifteen minutes in the shop saves you a return.
Derby boots (8-eye, 6-eye) β the classic lace-up boot. Works with jeans, chinos, casual trousers. The most versatile boot style. The Solovair 8-Eye Derby and the Dr Martens 1460 are the two benchmarks.
Chelsea boots β pull-on, no laces, elasticated side panels. Dressier than a derby boot. Works with tailored trousers and slimmer jeans. Solovair and Loake both make excellent versions.
Brogues β decorative perforations on the toe and sides. Can be a boot or a shoe. More formal. Loake dominates this category at BritBoot.
Creepers β thick crepe sole, low profile, distinctive silhouette. A statement shoe, not a workhorse. George Cox owns this category.
Steel toe boots β reinforced toe cap for protection. Available across multiple brands and eyelet counts. Functional first, style second β though a pair of polished steel-toe 14-eyes looks as good as anything.
Β£100βΒ£170: Standard Dr Martens, Grinders. Heat-sealed or cemented construction. Decent boots for occasional wear. Will last 3β5 years.
Β£170βΒ£250: Solovair, Loake entry-level, Dr Martens Made in England. Goodyear welted, resolable, better leather. Will last 8β15 years with care. This is the sweet spot for most buyers.
Β£250βΒ£450: George Cox, Loake premium, Dr Martens MiE special editions. Hand-lasted or premium construction. Heirloom quality. These are boots and shoes you keep for life.
Β£450+: Vintage and rare Made in England Dr Martens. Collector items. One-off stock that will not be reproduced. Browse our Vintage & Rare collection.
Best first serious boot: Solovair 8-Eye Derby Boot in Greasy Black. Made in England, Goodyear welted, resolable, half sizes available. Β£220.
Best Chelsea boot: Solovair Dealer Boot in Black Hi-Shine. Clean, versatile, same factory quality.
Best for smart-casual: Loake Bedale Brogue Boot. Northamptonshire-made, Goodyear welted, works with tailoring.
Best statement shoe: George Cox D-Ring Creeper in Black Leather. The original creeper. Nothing else looks like it.
Best on a budget: Grinders Stag Derby Boot. Solid construction at an accessible price point.
Still unsure? Read our Solovair vs Dr Martens comparison or visit us in Camden Town. We have been helping people choose boots since before your grandparents were born.
]]>Some are. Most are not. And the difference matters more than you might think.
If you pick up a pair of Dr Martens from a high street retailer or from the Dr Martens website, the chances are overwhelming that they were made in China, Vietnam, Laos, or Thailand. The standard 1460, the 1461, the Jadon platform β all manufactured overseas.
Dr Martens does still produce a small "Made in England" line. These boots are manufactured in Northamptonshire using better leather and closer construction methods to the originals. But they represent a tiny fraction of the brand's total output, and they cost significantly more β typically Β£260βΒ£300 compared to Β£170 for the standard version.
We have sold Dr Martens from our shop in Camden Town since the late 1950s β before most people had heard of them. We carry both the Made in England line and the standard range. Here is what happened, and what it means for you as a buyer.
For the first four decades of Dr Martens' existence, every pair was made in England. The boots were produced at factories in Northamptonshire β including the NPS factory in Wollaston, which manufactured Dr Martens under contract for over thirty-five years.
By the early 2000s, Dr Martens was in financial trouble. The brand had overexpanded, fashion trends had shifted, and sales were falling. In 2003, the company made the decision to close its UK factories and move production to Asia. It was a commercial survival move, but it fundamentally changed the product.
The NPS factory in Wollaston did not close. It had been making boots since 1881 β long before Dr Martens existed β and it simply continued producing the same boots under a new name: Solovair. Same factory. Same machinery. Same Goodyear welting. Different label.
Dr Martens retained a small production line in England, producing a premium "Made in England" (MiE) range. These boots use Quilon leather β a step up from the corrected-grain leather used in the standard range β and are constructed using methods closer to the original pre-2003 process.
The MiE 1460 is a better boot than the standard 1460. The leather is thicker and more consistent. The construction is sturdier. The feel out of the box is closer to what Dr Martens used to be.
But at Β£260βΒ£300, it sits in a price bracket where it faces direct competition from Solovair, which offers Goodyear welted, Made in England construction at Β£199βΒ£230. We have written a detailed comparison of Solovair vs Dr Martens if you want the full breakdown.
Check the tongue. Every pair of Dr Martens has a label inside the tongue stating the country of manufacture. If it says "Made in England," it is from the MiE line. If it says "Made in China," "Made in Vietnam," "Made in Laos," or "Made in Thailand," it is from the standard range.
The Made in England range also typically features slightly different branding β the heel loop and insole will state the English origin. The boxes are usually different too, with MiE boots packaged in a more premium box with specific labelling.
On the Dr Martens website, the Made in England products are listed in a separate collection. They are not mixed in with the standard range, so it is difficult to buy one by accident β in either direction.
The most noticeable difference is the leather. Standard Dr Martens use corrected-grain leather β a thinner hide with a surface coating applied to create uniformity. It looks fine new, but it does not develop a patina. It can crack and peel rather than ageing gracefully.
The sole construction changes too. Standard Dr Martens use a heat-sealed welt β the sole is bonded to the upper with heat rather than stitched. This is faster to produce but means the boot cannot be resoled. When the sole wears through, the boot is finished.
And there are subtler differences: thread quality, eyelet consistency, sole density, insole cushioning. Individually, none of these are dramatic. Collectively, they add up to a boot that feels and performs differently from what Dr Martens used to be.
That depends on what you want from a boot.
If you want the Dr Martens look β the yellow stitching, the AirWair branding, the brand recognition β at an accessible price point, the standard range does the job. At Β£170, the standard 1460 is still a decent boot. It is just not the same boot it was in 1990.
If you want the original Dr Martens quality β Made in England, resolable, thick leather, long-lasting β you have two choices. You can buy the Dr Martens Made in England line at Β£260βΒ£300. Or you can buy Solovair at Β£199βΒ£230 and get what is, in construction terms, the same boot from the same factory that made the originals.
We sell both. We recommend both, depending on what matters to you. If the yellow stitching and the DM branding are important, buy Made in England Dr Martens. If construction quality and value matter more, buy Solovair. Either way, buy Made in England.
We carry the Made in England range in our Camden Town shop and online. We also stock the standard range, so you can compare both in person if you visit. Nick can talk you through the differences and fit you in each.
Browse our Dr Martens collection and our Solovair collection online, or read our complete Solovair vs Dr Martens comparison for the detailed breakdown.
]]>If you're looking at Solovair and Dr Martens side by side and wondering why they look almost identical, there's a very good reason. Solovair β made by NPS Shoes in Wollaston, Northamptonshire β was the factory that manufactured the original Dr Martens boots for over thirty years. When Dr Martens moved most of its production to Asia in 2003, NPS kept making the same boots, using the same machinery and the same lasts, under the Solovair name.
We've sold both brands from our shop in Camden Town since the 1960s. We've fitted thousands of customers in each. This isn't a review based on buying one pair of each online β it's what we've learned over decades of selling, fitting, and repairing these boots every day.
The Dr Martens story begins in 1945 when Klaus MΓ€rtens, a German doctor, designed an air-cushioned sole to help his injured foot heal. He partnered with Herbert Funck, and the two began producing boots in Munich. In 1959, the Griggs family β shoemakers in Wollaston, Northamptonshire β spotted the design in a trade magazine and licensed it for the British market. On 1 April 1960, the first Dr Martens 1460 boot rolled off the production line.
For the next four decades, every pair of Dr Martens was made in England. The boots became standard issue for postmen, factory workers, and police officers before being adopted by skinheads, punks, mods, and goths. By the 1990s, Dr Martens had become one of the most recognisable footwear brands in the world.
Financial difficulties in the early 2000s forced a pivotal decision. In 2003, Dr Martens closed its UK factories and moved production to China, Vietnam, Laos, and Thailand. A small "Made in England" line was retained, but the vast majority of Dr Martens sold today β including the flagship 1460 β are manufactured overseas.
When Dr Martens ended its contract with NPS Shoes in 2003, the Wollaston factory didn't close. NPS had been making boots since 1881 β long before Dr Martens existed β and they simply continued doing what they'd always done. The boots that came off the line were virtually identical to the Dr Martens they'd been producing for thirty-five years, but now they carried the Solovair name, a portmanteau of "Sole of Air."
Today, every pair of Solovair boots is still made at the NPS factory in Wollaston. The workforce, the machinery, the Goodyear welting equipment β it's all the same. Solovair has grown from a niche factory brand into a respected name in its own right, with collaborations including Carhartt WIP and a growing following among buyers who want the original Dr Martens quality without the overseas production.
The Ί£½Η»»Ζή has been the home of Dr Martens retail since 1958 β we were the first shop in the world to stock them. We've carried Solovair since NPS began selling under their own name, and we stock the full range of both brands' Made in England offerings. If you've ever visited our shop in Camden, you'll know that Nick will talk you through the differences in person and let you try both side by side.
Both brands use an air-cushioned sole β Dr Martens calls theirs "AirWair," while Solovair's is the original "Soft Sole Suspension" technology. In practice, the feel is very similar: a bouncy, cushioned step that absorbs impact well on hard surfaces.
The key difference is in the welt. Solovair boots are Goodyear welted, which means the upper leather is stitched to a welt strip that runs around the sole. This construction method is more expensive and more time-consuming, but it means the boot can be resoled β Solovair even sells replacement soles directly. Standard Dr Martens use a heat-sealed welt, where the sole is bonded to the upper rather than stitched. This is faster to manufacture but makes resoling more difficult. The Made in England Dr Martens line uses a closer construction method to Solovair, but at a significantly higher price point.
This is where the gap is most noticeable. Solovair consistently uses a thicker, tighter-grained leather across its range. The greasy and hi-shine leathers have a substantial feel straight out of the box, and they develop a genuine patina over time rather than simply cracking or peeling.
Standard Dr Martens use what the industry calls corrected-grain leather β thinner, with a coating applied to create a uniform surface. It's perfectly functional, but it doesn't age in the same way, and it's noticeably less substantial to the touch. The Made in England Dr Martens line uses Quilon leather, which sits between the two β better than the standard range, but generally still thinner than Solovair's offerings.
Solovair also sources its leather from European tanneries, while standard Dr Martens leather is sourced from Asia and South America. This isn't just a provenance point β European leather tends to have fewer defects and more consistent grain.
Dr Martens are instantly recognisable by their trademarked yellow welt stitching. Solovair uses tonal stitching β grey or matching the leather β which gives the boot a more understated, slightly dressier appearance. Some buyers prefer the bold Dr Martens look; others appreciate that Solovair can pass in more formal settings. It's a matter of taste, not quality.
Dr Martens are known for running slightly large and are famously sold in whole UK sizes only. If you're a half size, you're typically advised to size down, which can leave you with a boot that's either slightly too snug or slightly too roomy. Break-in on standard Dr Martens can be notoriously unforgiving β the stiff leather and heat-sealed sole don't flex easily in the first few weeks.
Solovair offers half sizes across most of its range, which makes fitting significantly easier. The boots tend to run true to UK sizing. The leather is firmer out of the box β in fact, the first day in a pair of Solovairs can be tougher than Dr Martens β but because the leather is thicker and natural-grained, it moulds to the shape of your foot over time rather than simply stretching out. The leather insole also conforms to your foot, which means the fit improves with every wear.
Our advice: try both. If you're in Camden, come to the shop and we'll fit you in each. If you're buying online, order your normal UK size in Solovair and size down in standard Dr Martens.
Standard Dr Martens 1460 boots retail at around Β£170. Solovair's equivalent 8-eye derby boot sits at approximately Β£220. That Β£50 difference gets you Made in England construction, better leather, Goodyear welting, half-size availability, and a boot that can be resoled.
If you're comparing like for like β Solovair against the Dr Martens Made in England 1460 β the picture shifts further. The MiE 1460 retails at around Β£260βΒ£300, making Solovair the better-value option by a significant margin for what is, in construction terms, a very similar boot made in the same region of England.
Factoring in resoling, a pair of Solovairs can last a decade or more of regular wear. Standard Dr Martens, with their bonded soles, typically last three to five years before the sole degrades beyond repair.
For your first Solovair: The Solovair 8-Eye Derby Boot in Greasy Black. This is the boot that started it all β the direct descendant of the original 1460. Thick greasy leather, Goodyear welted sole, made at the NPS factory in Wollaston. If you want to understand why people switch from Dr Martens to Solovair, this is where you start.
For a Made in England Dr Martens: The Dr Martens 1460 Made in England in black or cherry. Quilon leather, made in the UK, with the classic yellow stitching. It's more expensive than Solovair, but if the DM branding matters to you, this is the one to get β not the standard range.
For something different: The Solovair Dealer Boot in Black Hi-Shine. A Chelsea-style pull-on boot with all the Solovair construction benefits. Works equally well with jeans or trousers.
We sell both brands, and we'll always sell both brands. Dr Martens is a cultural icon, and the yellow-stitched 1460 has earned its place in fashion history. But if you're asking us which boot is better made, which boot will last longer, and which boot offers more value β it's Solovair. Every time.
That's not marketing. That's thirty-five years of shared factory history, thousands of pairs sold from our shop, and a straightforward comparison of materials, construction, and price.
Come to the shop in Camden Town and try both. Or browse our full Solovair collection and Dr Martens collection online.
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